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Cape Crusaders

Lakefield is one of Australia’s most remote national parks.  From Cooktown its 88kms via the Battle Camp track and we travel a further 60kms into the park to the Kalpowar Crossing.  It’s a rough 4wd only track and the drive is 7 hours return.  The corrugations are unforgiving and relentless.  On the good bits we get up to 80kph, but can only manage 10kph in parts.  On the plus side, the kids love the bumps, and sleep the whole way there and back.  River crossings and camouflaged sandy pot holes are some of the obstacles along the way.

We detour off the main track to a few waterholes.  Garry wanders through the wilderness, camera snapping away.  I wait in the car and wonder “what am I doing here?”  As my phobia flares again, Garry complains, “You can’t just see everything from the car window”.  I reply meekly “Yes I can”.   Garry returns with a photo of a massive crocodile footprint….I’m glad I stayed in the car.

At Kalpowar Crossing camping ground the riverbank is about eight meters above the Normanby River.  Up this high, and with other campers about, I relax a little.  Garry sets up the barbeque and makes us another one of his gourmet meals.  A camper tells Garry they saw a four-meter crocodile at the crossing that morning….great!  In Lakefield, you really do feel like you have travelled to the end of the earth.  The landscape is so pristine and raw.  The termite mounds are a work of art, oriented to the passing of the sun.